Pierless Blog - 2025-06-18 - Von Donop Inlet to Refuge Cove

 June 18:

As much as we enjoyed Von Donop, it was time to move on.  By now, we had a good routine for loading the dinghy on deck and the paddle boards into their cradle.  Once loaded, we fired up the engine and began raising the anchor.  It came up clean (as it has at most of our anchorages so far), and we were soon motoring down the inlet toward Sutil Channel.  Today's goal is Refuge Cove on West Redonda island, a trip of about 17 nautical miles which should take four hours.

We departed at 7:15 to hedge on the current through Lewis Channel.  We knew the tides, but did not have information on current direction at this time, so we timed our departure toward the next tide change.  This way, if we were lucky, we would have a following current for a couple of hours.  If we were wrong, we only had foul current for two hours.

No wind - On way to Refuge Cove

The morning was clear and windless.  Heavy haze of the past week gave depth to the mountains as we motored along.  Other than the drone of the engine, it was a still and peaceful start to the day.  Our plan was to round the north end of Cortez Island and head southeast down Lewis Channel.  We guessed wrong on the current, so had 1 - 1.5 Kts against us as we started down the channel...

Lewis Channel proved to be a pleasant surprise.  It is a deep fjord with a steep rocky shores dotted with many rocky cliffs.  We were able to motor 200 feet from shore in depths often exceeding 500 feet!  There were many eagles along the way as well.  We observed two mature bald eagles along the shore as a third eagle that we thought might be a golden flew at them.  Expecting some kind of territorial dispute, we were surprised that it was a juvenile who landed next to the adults with no ensuing drama.

Pierless at the Refuge guest dock

As the current changed, we picked up speed toward Refuge Cove.  Arriving at noon, we topped off our fuel tank, moved Pierless to the guest moorage area and settled in for a rest day in "civilization".  At this point, "civilization" means a general store, laundry and showers!

General Store at Refuge Cove

We enjoyed lunch and a beer at the restaurant, explored the docks, store and other facilities, then relaxed on the boat.  

Refuge Cove Restaurant

As at New Castle, Refuge Cove had nesting boxes for Purple Martins.  They are the largest of the swallow family and are very social.  Preferring to nest in groups, they appear to enjoy sitting on their "verandas" to socialize and watch the world.  Their call is quite melodic and it was fun watching them in the harbor.  Dave plans to build nests for them at his home in the near future.

Purple Martins

Pierless at guest dock (top center)

Refuge Cove

Refuge Cove

- Brian

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